Dim sum,
share some

Communal dining,

from tapas to tandoori

by Greg Duran

Published in The San Antonio Express-News  

To nibble is human; to share, divine.  

Foodies and other culinary adventurers will know just what this means.  

If there's a hot new restaurant, you can bet they'll be there in packs, each one ordering something different so they can pick off one another's plates and sample more of the menu.  

True, folks have been ordering heaping plates of chow mein and egg rolls to share in Chinese restaurants for years. But most restaurants still serve gigantic portions, making it hard for diners hankering to try a variety of delicacies all at once.  

Thankfully, in recent years the Alamo City has become home to a number of exotic dining options that are expressly designed for nibbling and sharing.  

Whether it's Chinese dim sum or Korean pan-chan, communal dining has never been as adventurous - or as much fun. Among the possibilities:  

Dim sum  

What is it? Dim sum means "heart's delight" in the Cantonese dialect, and what a delightful concept it is. While you sit at your table, feeling every bit the pampered aristocrat, carts piled high with little bamboo baskets are wheeled by, each with two or three delicacies for you to choose from. It's a rolling buffet, so to speak, offering everything from shrimp-stuffed dumplings to steamed pork buns to marinated, steamed squid.  

When you've made your selection, the attendant logs it in on your bill. All that's left to do is eat. Don't worry if your favorite item's not immediately available, for soon enough another cart will make a stop at your table with even more tempting treats. You may also put in a special order for a particular item if you'd rather not wait for it to appear on a cart.  

Where do I find it? For a true dim sum experience, go to Golden Wok, 8822 Wurzbach (615- 8282), on a Saturday or Sunday between 11:30 a.m. and 1:30 p.m. While dim sum can be ordered through the kitchen any time the rest of the week, this is the only time carts will zoom by your table with the delectable treats. Van's, 3214 Broadway (828-8449), also serves dim sum on weekends but eschews the fun carts; it's by individual order only.  

What should I order? "We recommend new customers come in on the weekend when the food's circulating around on the carts," says Mary McGee, a manager at Golden Wok. "That way, they actually can see what they're ordering." Looking at an item is still no guarantee that you'll know what it is; if you're unsure, just ask. And be adventurous - that's the whole point of dim sum, anyway.  

Some of our favorites include: Cheng fung, which are soft, flat rolls (they look a bit like enchiladas) made from sheets of a rice flour mixture, stuffed with shrimp or pork; Har gao, shrimp dumplings; shu mai, dumplings filled with pork or shrimp that are served slightly open; Nor mei gai, aka "sticky rice," a fabulous dish of rice, different meats and sauce, all wrapped and steamed in a lotus leaf; and steamed, fresh Chinese broccoli.  

How do I eat it? Appetizer plates and chopsticks are provided, and forks are available; goes well with hot jasmine or chrysanthemum teas.  

How much does it cost? Most items, which are enough for a couple of bites each for two people, range in price from $1.80 to $6, with most hovering at about $2.  

Pan-chan  

What is it? At Korean restaurants, pan-chan (pronounced PAWN-chawn), or side dishes, are little bowls filled with exotic treats, such as kimchi, a sour-hot, pickled cabbage, and crispy, jumbo bean sprouts, seasoned with a hint of sesame oil.  

Where do I find it? Our favorite Korean restaurant in town is Wang Goong Chinese and Korean, 4429 Walzem (590-2600). Koreana, 2458 Harry Wurzbach (804-0019), is also a good bet.  

What should I order? Pan-chan are brought automatically to your table when you order an entree - say, a Korean beef barbecue or chap chae, a dish of stir-fried cellophane noodles with beef and vegetables. Broiled whole fish and seafood stews are among the many other scrumptious options. You will get anywhere from seven to 14 different types of pan-chan, depending on what they have in the kitchen, but you can depend on several types of kimchi being there.  

How do I eat it? Chopsticks are the most efficient way; simply grasp what you want from the table and eat it - no need to serve yourself a separate portion.  

How much does it cost? Pan-chan come free with your entree order, which ranges typically from $7-14.  

Maharaja dinner  

What is it? A multi-course Indian meal for two, consisting of tandoori (chicken marinated in yogurt and spices, then barbecued on a tandoor, a traditional Indian barbecue), barra kebab (skewered lamb), tikka (char-broiled fish), saag paneer (cheese and spinach cooked in a light curry) and raita (spiced yogurt with veggies).  

Where do I find it? Kiran Indian Restaurant, 7075 San Pedro (349-6600).  

What should I order? Just take a seat and request the maharaja; the courses will start coming.  

How do I eat it? Serve yourself a portion from a variety of dishes brought to you. Curries go well over rice, and you can scoop up the drippings with naan, a wonderfully soft Indian bread.  

How much does it cost? $29.95 (serves two).  

Tapas  

What is it? Tapas, little snacks often served before or as dinner, are Spanish in origin. The word tapa (Spanish for "cover") dates back many years to the days when a small plate, placed atop a wine glass, was used to keep flies out. Tapas can be virtually anything, from tortilla española (a cold omelet) to sandwiches, known as bocadillos.  

Where do I find it? One of the few places currently serving tapas in town is Boardwalk Bistro, 4011 Broadway (824-0100). Next month, Gaucho's Restaurant and Tapas Bar, 13259 Blanco (493-7381), is slated to open in the space formerly occupied by the Fireplace Inn. And Anaqua Grill in the Plaza San Antonio also serves the savory Spanish delights.  

What should I order? Besides the above-mentioned items, Boardwalk serves a lamb brochette, a loin of rabbit and calamari over saffron. Ian Reynolds, manager of the soon-to-open Gaucho's, isn't certain what his tapas menu will include, but says it will likely feature old standbys such as pulpos a la bilbaina (marinated, sliced octopus, Bilbao-style), sardinas tipo Galicia (sardines marinated in a tomato base), bolas de jamon (a meatball of chopped, cured ham, like a dense ham salad) and camarones al ajillo (shrimp with fresh garlic).  

How do I eat it? Order several different dishes, then serve yourself on your own appetizer plate. A French-style bread and olive oil for dipping may or may not come with it.  

How much does it cost? At Boardwalk, tapas range in price from $3.95 to $7.95 an order.

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